San Juan, Puerto Rico

Feel free to explore the city by foot and visit its many historical sites, museums, parks, plazas, and shops – Old San Juan is small enough so that you are never more than a fifteen-minute walk away from the closest bar or restaurant for you to rest, recharge, have a meal or enjoy a couple of drinks.  Many of the city’s streets include a restaurant or two; even in the most residential areas you’ll find a cafetín (cafeteria), bistro, or pizza place lurking right around the corner.  However, there are some streets you might want to consider if you wish to explore your dining options quickly: Recinto Sur Street., Fortaleza St. (particularly its southern end, also known as SoFo), and Del Cristo Street. Each hosts a variety of restaurants and flavors.

Before delving into food, I’d like to (or rather, as your host, feel the obligation to) guide you through a couple of my favorite spots in Old San Juan.  La Plazuela de la Rogativa in Las Monjas St. is one of the Puerto Rico’s best-kept secrets.  The iconic statue standing in the middle of this plaza is a tribute to the women of the city, who are said to have saved the city from the British in the late 18th century by holding a religious procession with torches and bells (the British mistook them for reinforcements and opted to sail away).  The plaza holds one of the best views to the bay and is an obligatory stop for photo enthusiasts.  It also reminds me of my childhood.  My parents used to take my brothers and I to El Morro (located nearby, to the north of the Plazuela) to fly our kites and we would always stop here to rest and enjoy a ‘limber’ (an iced, fruit-flavored treat; I mostly went with lemon).  These are still sold by one of the neighbors living directly in front of the plaza to this day – just look for an open door in Las Monjas St. with decidedly homemade advertisements for bottled water and other refreshments and ask for today’s flavors

There’s no doubt that El Morro (short for: Fuerte San Felipe del Morro) is Puerto Rico’s best-known tourist attraction.  An impressive Spanish fortress from centuries back, it is undoubtedly a site to behold.  Trust me, you really have to see it for yourself.  However, I’d like to direct your attention to the large field in front of El Morro.  This is were adults and kids come to fly their kites on Sundays, were young couples hold hands and share their first kiss, were students from the nearby art school find inspiration, and people of all ages hold picnics with their loved ones.  The trade winds cast a spell (the ‘try having a cell phone conversation now’ spell) on those who wonder into this field, beckoning all to stay and stare at the fortress as it forever separates the emerald blades of grass from the deep blue waters of the Atlantic and the azure skies above.  Staring out into the ocean, breeze blowing by – now this is how you experience history!

El Morro and La Rogativa are some of the places I hold close to my heart, serving as inspiration for EyeTour.com – Puerto Rico’s Premier Online Video Guide – a project born out of love for technology, design, and my beautiful country.  I invite you to take a look at the site if you are interested in learning more about Old San Juan and the rest of Puerto Rico’s many wonders.  Now, on to some gastronomical exploration!

Restaurants:

I. Al Estilo Criollo
Visitors might want to try the local criollo flavors first.  Puerto Rican cuisine, known locally as ‘cocina criolla’ is a unique blend of European, Amerindian Taínos, African, and North American influences that although similar to Latin American and Spanish cuisines, but has a flavor that is all its own.  Here are some of the best places to try it out in Old San Juan. 

Since its humble beginnings in the municipality of Caguas, closer to the island’s central mountain range, Raíces Restaurant quickly became synonymous with ‘mofongo’.  A signature dish in Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine, it consists of fried green plantain (or yucca), which is then mashed, seasoned (with garlic, olive oil, and chicharrones or pork cracklings), and oftentimes stuffed with meat.  The mofongo here is one of the best I’ve tried in my youngish life and their success in opening a second restaurant in Old San Juan’s Recinto Sur St. is ours to savor.  You can’t go wrong with Raíces’s specialty, the Mofongo Relleno de Churrasco al Chimichurri (that’s a mouthful – basically a mofongo stuffed with skirt steak).  Get the Festival Boricua, an appetizer platter, to sample several of the fried treats you’d buy off vendors in popular beach areas like Piñones and the Balneario de Luquillo.  Also worth noting is the restaurant’s central motif, which embraces the Puerto Rican criollo experience, recreating a typical countryside home circa 1940 with local crafts, authentically dressed servers, and even live Plena music.  Some locals might find the décor a bit gimmicky, and I won’t argue with that statement, but ultimately it’s a good-natured effort to revel in our Puerto Rican roots and to let visitors join in on the fun.

El Jibarito, a staple of Old San Juan city life, has been serving its residents for more than three decades.  Situated in the middle of Sol St., on one of the more residential areas of the historic city, the restaurant is known for its well-seasoned Caribbean dishes and friendly atmosphere.  Maintained by Don Pedro and his wife Aida, the restaurant is decorated with Old San Juan memorabilia with its walls doubling as a tribute to the city they love to serve.  These are decorated with the characteristic balconies, doors, and windows that line Old San Juan’s streets and give the restaurant an unique and colorful look.  Here you’ll find a more laid-back ambience (as opposed to Raíces, which is always bustling with tourists and locals) in a cafeteria-style setting.  The menu consists of standard Caribbean fare done well, so come enjoy the fried plantains, rice and beans, and cube steak with onions like a true Puerto Rican!

Another local favorite is Café Manolín, located in San Justo St. between Tetuán and Fortaleza streets.  The restaurant features plenty of Puerto Rican home-style food at affordable prices – which makes it the restaurant of choice for visitors enjoying longer stays in the city.  Open for breakfast and lunch on weekdays and Saturday, you won’t be disappointed by the service or the food. Some even declare Manolín the victor in Old San Juan’s mofongo wars!

II. Creative Cuisine

Your options are not limited to the traditional ‘cocina criolla’.  The south of Fortaleza St. – or ‘SoFo,’ as it has become known in recent years – is host to Old San Juan’s trendier, more modern flavors with restaurants like Dragonfly, Parrot Club, Aguaviva, Tantra, and Blend.  Dining experiences in this part of town are not as casual, designed rather for the up-scale crowd, and prices tend to reflect that.  All of these are good options if you are looking to try out an original mix of traditional Latin Cuisine with International flavors and modern culinary preparations in hip and intimate surroundings.

Dragonfly is perhaps the most acclaimed locally, with its blend of Latin American and Asian cuisine.  Specialties include Peking Duck Nachos with wasabi sour cream, the Chino Latino Lo Mein, and the Tropical Triple Salmon Roll (salmon, avocado, mango, smoked salmon, salmon roe, and scallion).  Another well-known option, Tantra, fuses Latino with South Indian cuisine, while Aguaviva flaunts its ceviche and oyster bar in front of an open kitchen.  Although I am not a fan of seafood (and allergic to crustaceans), I have it in good authority that Aguaviva’s ceviche is a reason to visit Puerto Rico in and of itself.

Less risky (for me) but just as appetizing is El Burén’s assortment of Puerto Rican style pizzas.  Each is named after one of Old San Juan’s picturesque streets, starting with the basic Norzagaray pie and leading up to tasty combinations like the Tanca (mozzarella, manchego, parmesan, and blue cheeses; truffle oil & white sauce) and the San Sebastián (cream cheese, smoked salmon, capers, and onions).  This pizza is unlike any other on the island, with its unique thick crust – flaky-on-the-outside yet soft and warm on the inside (order it with sun-dried tomatoes and fresh rosemary baked right in) – and generous helpings of fresh ingredients.  Highly recommended, El Burén is one of my favorite restaurants in Puerto Rico.

III. Breakfast and Brunch

I am not a morning person, never have been – that’s why I majored in architecture – and probably never will be – that’s why I am self-employed.  However, whenever I stay in Old San Juan I make a point of waking up for breakfast (or at least, brunch).  The city’s charms are different when cast under the morning light, and especially on weekends when the air is less charged with work-related stress, you can feel its denizens collectively waking up to a good cup of coffee.  So step out into the street –
I’ll walk you through a few of my favorite places to start the day before heading back to El Morro or San Cristóbal for more exploration.  No complimentary breakfast will get the job done!

St. Germain is one of my most recent discoveries.  I was staying at The Gallery Inn for a mini-vacation a few weeks ago (internal tourism is an important part of the local industry) and my uncle had recommended this place for Sunday brunch so I decided to give it a try.  First thing you’ll notice is the European vibe that informs its décor, sitting, and menu, which immediately makes it stand out from the city’s other options.  Sunday brunch is prix fixe – for around $15 you can select a main dish accompanied by a fresh fruit salad (with toasted oats, yum!) and your choice of a hot and a cold beverage (tea/coffee and a selection of fresh fruit juices).  My girlfriend and I went with the French toast as a main dish and were not disappointed by their version of this breakfast favorite – sweetened with bananas and made even greater with a side of bacon.  St. Germain also serves gourmet sandwiches, salads, and other dishes that have made it a favorite among city residents and I’ll be returning soon to try out some items from their regular menu.  Also worth noting: the service is excellent – among the best I’ve experienced on the island.  The owner welcomed us and asked if we were new to the restaurant, gave us an overview of the menu, and was genuinely attentive to all patrons.  Consider me charmed!

The more traditional breakfast experience in Old San Juan is infinitely simpler (and cheaper) but no less satisfying.  It consists of three things: a mallorca (ham and cheese sandwich on sweet bread covered with powdered sugar; you can also order it with just butter or add eggs), a cup of coffee (‘negro’ for no milk, ‘cortadito’ for a bit of milk), and the local paper.  If this sounds like the proper way to do breakfast (I would agree) then there’s two good places to start your morning: Cafetería Mallorca and La Bombonera, both located near the plaza on San Francisco Street.  Although similar, Cafetería Mallorca is usually less crowded which is why I frequent it more.  Either way, you are in for a treat.  The mallorca is a perfect combination of flavors that is sure to jolt your brain into the afternoon (coffee helps with that too) and leave you wanting for another.  Both places have a quaint charm to them and offer an interesting look into local culture, with neighbors gathering to enjoy morning ‘tertulias’, talking about recent news, events, and politics.  Hands down one of the best ways to begin your exploration of the city.

IV. Bar Hopping

My favorite bar in Old San Juan closed down after about a decade of providing the friendliest and most laid-back space in which to have a couple of drinks with friends and enjoy live guitar music (R.I.P. Café San Sebastián).  So it is reluctantly that I look for other places to recommend.  This is not to say that there aren’t any other good local hangouts in Old San Juan – much to the contrary – but I am still in mourning.

Us Puerto Ricans are highly social creatures and many of us just want a place to talk with friends over a few drinks.  Puerto Rican ‘chinchorro’ culture is an acquired taste for many locals but I am willing to bet that visitors will appreciate Old San Juan’s mish mash of small bars lining Del Cristo and San Sebastián streets.  What’s a ‘chinchorro’?  A jukebox, a bar, and a few tables (optional).  La Sombrilla… rosa on San Sebastián Street offers a friendly environment and friendlier prices, making it a good choice if you feel like experiencing local nightlife of the more laid-back variety.  Also try out nearby hangouts Nono’s (corner of San Sebastián and Del Cristo St.), Don Pablo’s, and El Batey (both on Del Cristo St.).  Each offers pretty much the same but with different decorations and musical selections, so choose your favorite of the bunch and order a nice cold Cuba Libre – equal parts Don Q rum and Coca-Cola with a slice of lemon is the proper way to drink this. 

Another fine option and one of the most unique can be found at Old Harbor Brewery.  The restaurant, known for its high-quality and pricey meat entrees, is Puerto Rico’s only microbrew – which means it is the best place to enjoy a cold beer on the island.  Head to the bar and order up the sampler first (it will set you back about $12) and offers a taste of all 5 brews, ranging from the lighter Coquí golden lager to the beloved Kofresí Stout, with coffee and dark chocolate flavors.  My favorite is the Old Harbor Brew, a Pale Ale that is very aromatic and smooth in flavor.  There’s nothing better after a stroll in the scenic Paseo de la Princesa. 

If you are looking for trendier spots (or just like paying more for your drinks, I kid :-P) definitely head to SoFo.  The restaurants in that part of town offer a lively nightlife experience as well, with places like Blend (try the Blend Punch) and Fratelli (great mojitos) catering to the upscale crowd.  However you decide to spend your night in Old San Juan, your experience will ultimately hinge on the quality of the people you meet – and Puerto Ricans, as famous as we are around the world for our deep-rooted love of partying, we are ultimately best remembered for our hospitality and warmth.  Hope to see you around – first round’s on me!

Contributors

Alfredo Richner

Alfredo is the Co-Founder of EyeTour.com - Puerto Rico's Premier Online Video Guide and Co-Creator of the Parranda music app for the iPhone and iPod touch. He loves his family, his trusty sidekick Chan Power (a Pomeranian), his business partners, his friends, and his Wacom tablet. You can follow him on twitter at @EyeTourPR and @redod. (Additional photography by Jose Marti for EyeTour.com)

<< Back to City Guides