New Orleans
From Bourbon Street to Mardi Gras and everything in between, there are many aspects that draw visitors to the city. Chief among them is an unparalleled cuisine that’s almost impossible to reproduce in any other city. To any newcomer, Creole and Cajun cooking styles may seem synonymous with one another, and more importantly, they may seem like a blanket term for all New Orleans cuisine. The differences in the two are largely cultural; Cajun culture originated from the Acadians - French settlers who had migrated south from Nova Scotia to settle deep within Lousiana’s bayous and swamplands. Creole society was much more grounded in New Orleans and therefore evolved from a mixture of European and African cultures that had settled and coexisted there. Cajun cooking reflects the rustic nature of both the French-Acadian traditions as well as the influence the new Southern landscape had on the backcountry settlers – think inexpensive one-pot dishes such as jambalaya and etoufee. With its cosmopolitan origins, Creole cooking is said to be the more refined of the two and generally focuses on rich sauces, ripe vegetables and locally caught seafood, such as gumbo, redfish courtbouillion, and shrimp remoulade. The two culinary traditions do share some similarities, mainly through their shared methods of flavoring a dish through local herbs and spices, a roux or with “The Holy Trinity” – a mixture of sautéed celery, onions, and green bell peppers. Creole and Cajun dishes are hardly healthy, and while your diet may certainly take a hit, your soul will thank you profusely for showing it so much love.
When it comes time to fulfill those Creole and Cajun cravings, a trip to Jacques-Imo’s (8324 Oak St., 504-861-0886) will definitely do the trick. Decked out floor to ceiling with local artwork, the restaurant’s atmosphere speaks perfectly to the surrounding neighborhood’s natural funk. Noteworthy (and incredibly indulgent) dishes include Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake, Deep Fried Grits with Tasso Shrimp Sauce, and Oyster-Stuffed Fried Merliton, just to name a few. The menu also packs in a fair share of traditional local favorites, including Crawfish Etoufee, Blackened Redfish and Barbeque Shrimp. The same funk that seems to permeate the air in Jacques-Imo’s also overflows into the neighboring Maple Leaf Bar (8316 Oak St., 504-866-9359). Whether you’re looking to kill some time before your meal or get down to the legendary tunes of local musicians afterwards, the Maple Leaf is definitely worth a visit.
It would be an absolute crime to visit New Orleans and not indulge in a Po’ Boy. Having started off as nothing more than a lowbrow lunch option for the city’s poorer residents, Po’ Boys have evolved into a beloved delicacy. A Po’ Boy is no ordinary sandwich, and after one bite, you’ll find yourself swearing off all the other hoagies, subs, and Phillys of the world. Whether you choose golden-fried seafood as your filling or succulent roast beef smothered in gravy and “debris” to go between the perfectly crusty, yet airy locally-made French Bread, you’ll find yourself in hog heaven. Location definitely matters – when it comes to Po’ Boys, its best to do as the locals do and experience your Po’ Boy in its natural setting. Situated in the back portion of the family’s home, Domilise’s (5240 Annunciation St., 504-899-9126) is a true dive; every one of the restaurant’s well-earned wrinkles echoes proudly through the walls. But it’s this well-worn aesthetic paired with an absolute mastery of the Friend Oyster Po’ Boy that have made this Uptown favorite the end-all-be-all for Po’ Boys generation after generation.
When it comes to actual sightseeing, one of the best places to start is New Orleans’ famed Garden District. The neighborhood forms a slightly slanted square between Jackson and Louisiana avenues on the lower and upper sides, respectively, and St. Charles Avenue and Magazine Street on either sides. It’s important to fuel up with a good meal before taking off on your journey, and the best place to do that is Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar (1418 Magazine St., 504-524-3828). Located in the area below Jackson Avenue known as the Lower Garden District, Surrey’s serves up insanely good brunch items alongside refreshing homemade juices in a Boho-funky atmosphere. Personal favorites include Corned Beef Hash served with local boudin and andouille sausages, BBQ Shrimp and Grits, and Huevos Rancheros smothered in mole sauce.
Heading Uptown on Magazine Street, take a right on First Street and begin your Garden District tour from there. Spend some time exploring St. Charles Avenue as well; the iconic mansions are some of the most beautiful in the city and the tree-lined street also serves as the main route for parades during Mardi Gras. Cutting across Washington Avenue, you’ll find the world famous Commander’s Palace (1403 Washington Ave., 504-899-8221). While the prices are definitely steeper, the food is absolutely amazing and definitely worth the splurge if you’re looking to really treat yourself. Across the street from Commander’s is Lafayette Cemetery, a beautiful example of New Orleans’ unique above-ground cemeteries. Another great stop along the Washington stretch is Garden District Book Shop (2727 Prytania St., 2nd floor, 504-895-2266). In a world of big chain bookstores, New Orleans has a wonderful community of local booksellers, and Garden District Books is definitely one of the gems. The store exudes a warm hominess and the staff are extremely helpful – both in tracking down and recommending good reads and also in pointing you in the right direction to interesting landmarks and neighborhood niches that you may have otherwise skipped over. Plus they have an extensive collection of local cookbooks, so when you return home you can impress your friends with your knowledge and skill of New Orleans cooking.
After you finish perusing the streets of the Garden District, you may want to head back to Magazine Street for a little retail therapy. Home to some of the city’s greatest local boutiques, antique shops, cafes and art galleries, the six-mile stretch that makes up Magazine Street has a lot to offer and is definitely worth a visit. If you’re in need of a some caffeine to jumpstart your expedition, Rue De La Course (3121 Magazine St., 504-899-0242) serves up strong coffee and delicious pastries in a Boho/studious setting. If a real sugar rush is what you’re after, nearby Sucre (3025 Magazine St., 504-520-8311) takes the art of pasty making to a new level. Walking into Sucre is like stepping into the world of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette; pastel cakes, French macaroons and other confections sparkle under layers of ganaches and creams – many topped off with eye-catching sugary glitter. Their beautiful chocolates make perfect souvenirs for friends and relatives back home and their gelato, with flavors ranging from traditional to downright inventive, is always a delicious and refreshingly cool treat in the often-warm New Orleans weather.
Ignatius Eatery (4200 Magazine St., 504-896-2225) is another surefire stop if you’re looking for traditional New Orleans classics in a casual, yet still uniquely New Orleans atmosphere. Modeled to resemble a small neighborhood grocery store, the shelves lining the restaurant are stocked with local foods and condiments ranging from Zapp’s Potato Chips to Crystal Hot Sauce and everything in between and they’re all for sale, so you can bring a little Louisiana home with you. Their crawfish, corn and potato soup delicious embodies a crawfish boil in a bowl and goes especially well with locally brewed Abita beer, which is served ice cold in brown paper bags.
Crawfish are another one of the must-have New Orleans items, and while they’re delicious in all of the various crawfish-based dishes, there is truly nothing like a good crawfish boil. During crawfish season (March through June), Big Fisherman Seafood (3301 Magazine St., 504-897-9907) does the dirty work for you, boiling mass amounts of perfectly spiced crawfish alongside the traditional accoutrements – corn on the cob, potatoes and andouille sausage. Add to that a pound or so of boiled shrimp and a couple of crabs and you’ll have yourself a feast locals salivate over all year long. Crawfish are messy, so it’s best to enjoy them outside – ideally at Riverview Park (directly past Audubon Zoo, 6500 Magazine St.), the Mississippi River-lined extension of Audubon Park. This butterfly-shaped park, known simply as “The Fly” by locals, hosts everyone from local college students working on their tan to families reminiscing over barbeque picnics and little leaguers perfecting their soccer game and is the ideal spot for an impromptu crawfish picnic.
If you’re looking to sample the gourmet side of the Uptown culinary scene, Lilette and Martinique Bistro are both definite standouts among some stiff competition. With its deep red walls, tile floors and plush white leather banquets, Lilette (3637 Magazine St., 504-895-1636) offers outstanding cuisine in an atmosphere that embodies the perfect mix of romantic and French Bistro chic. Chef John Harris, recently nominated for Best Chef (South) by the James Beard Awards, elegantly prepares his creations with a seemingly effortless perfection, presenting meals that marry classic French-Italian with modern inventiveness. Notable dishes include the Alaskan king crab claws with passion fruit butter, Sautéed Grouper with steamed fennel and baby beets in Lillet Rouge butter, and for dessert, the Quenelles of Goat Cheese Crème Fraiche with poached pears, pistachios and lavender honey. During the warmer months, a meal at Lilette would remain incomplete without the Chilled Sweet Corn Broth with avocado and lump crabmeat.
Though small in size, Martinique Bistro (5908 Magazine St., 504-891-8495) packs a huge epicurean punch with Caribbean-French fare intermixed with local influences. The atmosphere is warmly inviting, and with only a few tables, is ideal for a romantic meal. During the summer months, the doors open onto a beautifully idyllic courtyard strung with lights where guests enjoy such notable dishes as Prince Edward Isle Mussels in White Wine with Apple Smoked Bacon, Maytag Blue Cheese & Cream, Grilled Alligator Sausage with Celeriac Remoulade & Cranberry-Whole Grain Mustard, and Oven Roasted Steen’s Cane Syrup Cured Duck Breast & Confit Duck Leg Quarter à la Satsuma with Stone Ground Goat Cheese Grits. Martinique’s strength also lies in their fresh fish specials, as well as their daily ice creams and sorbets, which are all made in-house and seem to bring together the chef’s whims with adventurous taste combinations that work exceptionally well with one another. Follow your Uptown meals with a drink at St. Joe’s Bar (5535 Magazine St., 504-899-3744). The charming watering hole is part dive and part pure hip sophistication, with its dimly lit, red walled interrior decked out with antiquated religious relics. The true gems of this bar, however, are both the funky covered patio in the bar and the bar’s signature Blueberry Mojito.
While the French Quarter is certainly central to the tourism industry in New Orleans, the historic neighborhood has far more to offer than a hangover after a night of downing drinks on Bourbon Street. Wandering the streets of the Quarter offers a vacation within a vacation with gorgeous Spanish/Creole architectural gems that feel more like a small European town than a bustling American city. The art galleries up and down Royal Street are definitely worth a visit, as are the Quarter’s various historic bars. Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (941 Bourbon St., 504-522-9377) may exist among the boisterous clubs of the famed stretch of debauchery, but once inside you’ll feel worlds away. The building dates back to the 1772, when the pirate Jean Lafitte opened the shop along with his brother and, aside from the addition of a bar and some tables, you get the sense that not much has changed since then. While its perfect for catching up with friends, the dimly lit interior lends itself even more to sinking away with a date over the bar’s signature drink, The Obituary Cocktail – a gin martini with a splash of absinthe.
Other historic drinking destinations in the Quarter include The Napoleon House (500 Chartres St., 504-524-9752). In 1821, the building’s owner offered up the home as a refuge for Napoleon during his exile. Although Napoleon never showed up, the building still steeps in the rich history of the neighborhood. With its beautifully crafted wood bar and charmingly rustic walls covered in portraits of the late emperor, the interior embodies a quintessentially bohemian vibe but the real treat lies outside. When the weather is nice, there is no better place to wistfully sip the afternoon away than the bar’s courtyard. While the bar’s signature Pimm’s Cup offers refreshment, if it’s adventure you’re after, there is no better drink than the Sazerac. Said to be the first cocktail ever made, this potent potion packs a punch with Rye Whiskey, Peychaud’s bitters and a splash of absinthe, topped off with a twist of lemon.
And finally, a trip to New Orleans wouldn’t be complete without an evening spent lingering over jazz music on Frenchmen Street in the historic Faubourg Marigny. Situated below the French Quarter, the Marigny is an artistic epicenter, and Frenchmen Street is packed with music club after music club with the occasional delicious restaurant or coffee shop tucked in between. Snug Harbor (626 Frenchmen St., 504-949-0696) features live jazz every night of the week, with local legends such as Ellis Marsalis, Charmaine Neville and Allen Toussaint regularly appearing. If you work up an appetite while listening, they also serve up a delicious hamburger, among other things. The Blue Nile (532 Frenchmen St., 504-948-2583) also regularly boasts gods of the New Orleans music scene, including Kermit Ruffins, Troy “Trombonne Shorty” Andrews, Irvin Mayfield and Walter “Wolfman” Washington. Truth be told, it’s hard to go wrong anywhere on Frenchmen. In fact, the same can be said for most places in New Orleans – in a city with so much creativity, soul and funk, you’d be hard pressed to find any local establishment that doesn’t exude the city’s natural vibe, and you’d be even more hard pressed to find yourself not being gently but surely carried away in it.
Contributors
Hartley Casbon is a freelance writer in New York City. Originally from New Orleans, she now works as Associate Producer for Nick News with Linda Ellerbee.
