Istanbul

Istanbul is a fascinating city where East meets West, ancient meets modern, secular meets devout, and rich meets poor.  While all of these dimensions are at play, the Bosphorous Sea, which separates the city between the European and Asian continents, is a channel of energy that absorbs and tames these competing identities, and keeps them flowing forward.  The majesty of Istanbul at sunset will convince any traveler of its place among the world’s most interesting and beautiful metropoli.  

Istanbul was Constantinople

Present day Istanbul has been the capital of many empires, dating back millennia.  In 330 it became Constantinople, capital of the Roman Empire.  In 395, the Roman Empire was divided in two, making Constantinople capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, Byzantium.  Because of its strategic position saddling two continents, the city has been a center of commerce and culture, and has always been a crossroads of civilization.  The dominant culture of Byzantium was Greek, and the city served as the seat of the Greek Orthodox Church.  The Hagia Sophia, one of the city’s most famous attractions, was once the largest Cathedral in the world (it is now a mosque).  When visiting Istanbul, you will need at least 2 days in the old city, where you will visit the Hagia Sophia and see the Byzantine mosaics that decorate the mosque’s interior.  The Blue Mosque is in direct view from the Hagia Sophia.  The myriad of Iznik blue tiles that completely cover the interior of the mosque are what give the mosque its name.   Suleymaniye Mosque, a short walk from the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque, is another must-see site in the area.  Take some time for these three sites, because once you are inside, you will want to sit quietly for a while to soak it all in. 

Not far from the Suleymaniye mosque is the famous shop Vefa Bozacisi, the Vefa Boza maker.  Boza is a fermented millet drink commonly consumed in cold weather.  You will love the old-fashioned look and feel of this place, where locals stop by to enjoy their boza in the late afternoon.  After an afternoon of site seeing, repose here and take in some local culture.  The area is home to Istanbul University, so you will pass many students and small businesses dedicated to student life.  

Among the must-see sites of the old city is Topkapi Palace, home of the greatest sultans.  The palace, its treasures, and all of the stories that you hear along the way will mesmerize you and wish you lived back in the era of Sultan Ahmed III.  

One thing any tourist must do is walk the Galata Bridge, crossing over the Golden Horn, and meander up into the Galata neighborhood.  Once a very poor area, now Galata is up and coming with many unique and authentic boutiques and stores.  You can then walk over to Taksim and Beyoglu and head down Istiklal Caddesi, one of (if not) the main streets of Istanbul.  They say that nearly 1 million people walk down this hubbub of businesses and restaurants every day.  There are musicians and peddlers all along the avenue, as well as many side streets, each with their own character that intertwine and meander off from Istiklal.  There are a few great places to take in the view of the whole city from there, which is especially phenomenal at sunset.  360 is a fun restaurant with large terrace at the top floor of a non-descript building right on Istiklal Caddesi (www.360istanbul.com).  In Pera, another neighborhood off Istiklal, try eating at Mikla or New Terrace, both of which have great views and great food.  For a colorful evening of Turkish food and traditional song, don’t miss Zarifi, on Cukurlucesme Sokak, No. 13.  You will spend the night eating, drinking raki, and singing to old songs along with the whole restaurant (www.zarifi.com.tr).  If you are there during the day, check out the lovely Pera Museum, where you can see the famous Ottoman painting "Turtle Trainer" by Osman Hamdi Bey, Mesrutiyet Caddesi, No. 65.  (http://en.peramuzesi.org.tr/)

Two of my favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul are Ortakoy and Bebek; both lie on the European side of the city.  Ortakoy is home to a gorgeous white mosque, a favorite of many Istanbullites.  The mosque lies on the bank of the river, right under one of the bridges that connect Europe and Asia.  The neighborhood surrounding the mosque is full of cafes, restaurants and small clothing and jewelry stores.  One of my favorites is the popular chain, House Café, where you can eat a mesmerizing Turkish breakfast (http://www.thehousecafe.com/). 

Bebek is a bit more chic than Ortakoy, and you can walk along the park and admire the yachts parked along the shore.  Stop in for an elegant lunch at Divan, an important name in the confection Turkish Delight.  Be sure to bring home some of their boxes (flavors include: mastic, pistachio, rose, and ginger, and coffee) as gifts.  I personally love their variety of sweet and savory cookies made with various Mediterranean fillings. One of my favorite cafes in the world is located right there on Cevdet Pasa Cadessi, Mangerie.  It is up three flights of stairs, and only has a sign on the second floor to indicate the way.  However, it is well worth the trouble of finding the place.  The service is calm and cool, and the view of the sea from Bebek is as relaxing as they come.  There is a little detail in everything that they do- from olives with sundried tomatoes, to hyper-herbal mint lemonade, to fruit slices and herbs to accompany a simple cup of tea.  You will ooh and aww at all of the small touches.  If you can resist the temptation of a fruit crumble at Mangerie, head to Fortuna for a scoop of Mastic gelato.

While in Bebek check out some of the stores.  Yargici has both an accessories boutique and a clothing store.  Midnight Express has a collection of international and local designer pieces, as well as a few touches of home décor to impress.  My favorite store, however, is Begum Salihoglu, whose atelier lies at the corner of Kucuk Bebek Caddesi.  Her pieces are unique, classic, and elegant, and she will work with her clients to make sure they are happy with the pieces they purchase from her collections.  If you have a formal event in the city, you should check her out before anyone else.  (http://www.begumsalihoglu.com/)

On the Asian side of Istanbul, one must stroll down the Bagdat Caddesi (which translates to Baghdad Street).  Whereas Istiklal Caddesi is a hubbub of music, noise, and people; the Bagdat Caddesi is at ease with its slower pace and more verdant feel.  One of my favorite eateries on this pleasant avenue is the traditional Iskender Kebabi, which only serves Iskender Kebap, a doner kebab over rice with tomato broth and yogurt.  There are countless eateries and cafes on the Bagdat, including dessert shops that specialize in Turkey’s most exotic of desserts, Chicken Pudding (Tavuk Gogsu).  http://www.iskenderkebabi.com/

Another area to visit on the Asian side of the city is Kadikoy, an old neighborhood opposite the old city, which is home to the famous restaurant Ciya.  Chef Musa Dagdeviren recreates old traditional recipes, many not made anymore, in his restaurant.  You might want to spend a few meals at the Ciya Sofrasi, www.ciya.com.tr. 

For a high brow afternoon and evening, go shopping in Besiktas, where you can find Haremlique, a gorgeous home store with delicious linens and other accents like candles and nice teas.  Afterwards, go to the Ciragan Palace or the Four Seasons for a cocktail overlooking the Bosphorous.  You can then head over to Sortie or Reina for a night of dancing and cocktails (which always come with fresh fruits and nuts).  

Other fun things: 

-- Spend an afternoon smoking nargile, talking with friends, watching sports, and eating fruit, nuts, and seeds at Ali Baba Nargile in Tophane, Karakoy (the Taksi driver will know).

-- Meander through the Covered Bazaar and buy souvenirs for all your friends. 

-- Ride the ferry from Besiktas to Kadikoy at Sunset. 

-- Buy a simit from a simitci and eat it with a glass of Ayran.  

Contributors

Sophia Brittan

Sophia Brittan hosts the online cooking show Kitchen Caravan, http://www.kitchencaravan.com. She is a trained chef and holistic health counselor, and is dedicated to teaching people about food, health, and culture. She currently resides in New York City, but loves traveling as much as possible.

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